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ANSI/BHMA Grading Standards: Decoding Smart Lock Durability

What is the difference between Grade 1, 2, and 3? We break down the cycle tests, sledgehammer impact ratings, and the A156.25 electronics standard.

5 min read
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#data-table#standard

Executive Summary

You wouldn't buy a car without checking its safety rating. Yet, millions of people trust their homes to "Grade 3" locks that can be defeated by a single well-placed kick.

The ANSI/BHMA (American National Standards Institute / Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association) grading system is the physics-based truth behind the marketing.

  • Grade 1: Commercial Highest Security (Banks, Schools, High-Traffic).
  • Grade 2: Residential High Security (Standard for Quality Homes).
  • Grade 3: Residential Standard (Builder Grade / Flip Houses).

The Grading Matrix (A156.36 / A156.40)

A smart lock consists of a Deadbolt (Mechanical) and a Keypad/Motor (Electronic). Both must be tested.

TestGrade 1 (Best)Grade 2 (Better)Grade 3 (Good)
Cycle Count
(Longevity)
250,000 Cycles
(~25 Years daily use)
150,000 Cycles
(~15 Years daily use)
80,000 Cycles
(~8 Years daily use)
Door Impact
(Kick-in Resistance)
10 Blows
(100 ft-lbs / ~200 Joules)
5 Blows
(80 ft-lbs)
2 Blows
(60 ft-lbs)
Bolt Strength
(Sledgehammer)
1,350 lbs pressure1,125 lbs pressure675 lbs pressure
Strike PlateHeavy Duty (3" screws)Standard (1" screws)Light Duty

Why "Grade 3" is Dangerous for Exterior Doors

Many entry-level smart locks ($50-$90) use Grade 3 zinc-alloy internal gears.

  • The Risk: A 200lb man kicking the door generates ~100 ft-lbs of force. A Grade 3 lock is rated to fail after just 2 blows of 60 ft-lbs.
  • The Result: The bolt bends, the casing shatters, and the door opens.

The "Smart" Standard: ANSI A156.25

Mechanical strength is useless if the electronics fry. ANSI/BHMA A156.25 is the specific standard for Electrified Locking Devices. It adds:

  1. ESD (Electrostatic Discharge): The keypad is zapped with 8,000 Volts to simulate a user touching it after walking on carpet in winter.
  2. Environmental Torture:
    • Cooking: 150°F (66°C) for days.
    • Freezing: -30°F (-35°C) to ensure the motor grease doesn't freeze and stall.
    • UV Light: 720 hours of intense UV to ensure the plastic keypad doesn't crack or fade.
  3. Battery Voltage: Testing behavior when batteries drop to 3.5V (Do you get a warning, or does it just die?).

Buyer Beware: A lock can be "Grade 1 Deadbolt" but fail the electronics test. Look for "ANSI/BHMA A156.25 Compliant" specifically.


Top Grade 1 Smart Locks (2025)

  1. Schlage Encode / Encode Plus: Widely considered the "Gold Standard" for residential durability. It is a true Grade 1 device.
  2. Yale Assure 2: Typically Grade 2. Excellent for normal homes, but uses lighter materials than the Schlage.
  3. Level Lock+: Despite its small size, it claims Grade 1 strength due to its hardened steel alloy bolt design, though the motor strength is lower.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install a Grade 1 lock on a cheap door?

You can, but it's pointless. If you put a Grade 1 Schlage on a hollow-core door or a door with a pine frame and short screws, the burglar will just kick the frame apart. The lock will survive, but the door won't. Always use 3-inch screws in the strike plate to reach the wall studs.

Is "Commercial Grade" always better?

For Security, yes. For Lifestyle, maybe not. Commercial Grade 1 locks (like Sargent or alarm locks) are loud, clunky, and have industrial aesthetics. Residential Grade 1 (like Schlage Encode) balances toughness with quiet motor operation.

Does Grade 1 stop lock picking?

No. Grading measures Force. Picking is measured by UL 437. However, 98% of break-ins are physical force (kicks), not picking. Therefore, Impact Resistance is statistically more relevant than Pick Resistance.

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